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Between Inner Mongolia’s two principal cities, Hohhot, the capital, and Baotou, its major industrial centre, a wide east-west valley allows rapid communication by both road and rail. To the north rises a line of mostly treeless hills beyond which an almost waterless desert stretches right through to Ningxia, Gansu and across northwestern China. This green corridor overlaps the Yellow River’s Great Bend. Were it not for those waters then desert would inevitably have covered much of what today is fertile agricultural land.

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