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When I look at contemporary online maps, transport infrastructure has changed considerably. Not only has the airport expanded, but it is today connected with Lhasa by an expressway along the northern banks of the  Yarlung Zangbo River. In 2000 I had a quite different experience of the river — by boat. Yes, a boat trip in Tibet! Although the river mostly flows fast with considerable turbulence, there are sections placid enough for ferry boats to navigate. One such craft would carry me toward the 8th-century Samye Monastery, which I had first seen from an aircraft descending into Gonggar Airport. Located in a fertile valley stretching between dry mountain slopes, Samye at that time was isolated, with the main access via the river crossing.

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