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In fine spirits

A new generation of winemakers is turning Shangri-La's mountain valleys into China's most uplifting frontier of wine, Li Yingxue reports.

By LI YINGXUE????|????CHINA DAILY????|???? Updated: 2025-10-18 09:36

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Staff members of Songtsam Cizhong Winery harvest grapes. CHINA DAILY

Today, Songtsam carries that legacy forward with a renewed sense of purpose. "Our goal in making wine is to protect the land beneath our feet," says staff member Zhang Lanxun.

"Here in the valley, people cultivate grapes instead of overgrazing or hunting. Everything grows in balance, the land rests and renews, and together we share in the beauty of our home."

Beyond offering stable livelihoods to villagers like Kangzhu, the winery has expanded its vision to embrace sustainable creativity and experiential tourism. Inside the winery, visitors encounter far more than barrels and bottles. Candleholders made from recycled glass, handmade paper crafted from grape leaves, and sensory workshops that guide guests through the aromas of wine all contribute to an immersive journey.

The winery is housed within Songtsam Cizhong Lodge, which integrates hospitality with agricultural life. "Guests can enjoy lunch right in the vineyard — it's something truly special," Zhang says.

"We don't use pesticides, and the grass between the vines is cut and fed to our cattle and sheep. Visitors often spend hours walking among the vines, and at night we organize stargazing sessions. Next year, we even plan to host nighttime insect-watching events."

Each season brings a different kind of beauty, Zhang adds — from the delicate blossoms of spring to the vivid hues of ripening grapes.

For her, the connection to this land is deeply personal. Born and raised in Yunnan, she grew up hearing stories of the French missionaries who brought grape cultivation to the region. The lan in her name comes from the Lancang River — the same river that flows past the winery today. Standing among the vines, she feels a quiet sense of destiny, as though her life, the river, and the valley's history have all converged in this shared journey of renewal.

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