'Heaven on Earth': Yangshuo
Updated: 2007-05-31 10:11
Cycling - the way to appreciate the landscape of Moon Hill
For many people the real attraction lies beyond the town in the spectacular natural landscape. Often the best way to experience its beauty is by bicycle.
One delightful road leads to the aptly named Moon Hill (yueliangshan) - a great limestone pinnacle with a naturally created moon-shaped passage going through just below its summit.
The scenery along the road is dramatic. After winding along a narrow valley lined with rice fields the road emerges where a river from the beautiful Baisha Valley flows out towards the Li Jiang. Towers of limestone, all appearing roughly similar in height, look stunning in the early evening light. A scene enhanced by continual human activity in the fields around the base.
Close to Moon Hill is a delightful area. Just off the road is the 1500-year-old Big Banyan Tree whose branches and roots spread over a large area close to the river.
Across the water villages spread themselves around the base of narrow pinnacles. Caves in the rock face have often been turned into natural storage sheds. A causeway spans the river at this point. Although no problem for much of the year, crossing it is difficult when the summer rains are heavy and the brown-coloured water is high. Then, peasants with baskets suspended from bamboo shoulder poles, and trousers rolled up, carefully wade across the strong flow.
This area is spectacularly viewed from Moon Hill. Reaching its upper section requires a steep climb up a well-made path through groves of dense bamboo. Once past the vegetation the path enters the great natural opening that distinguishes this hill from its neighbours. Beyond, a steep, narrow track involving some simple scrambling soon leads to the flat, although narrow summit. Further away still, the skyline is lined with peaks of almost equal height - resembling narrow triangles of rock pointing skywards. Most are dark green, being covered with a thick mass of fairly jagged vegetation. The more distant hills are close together, contrasting with the wider spaces around the Baisha Valley. A patchwork of fields, in different stages of growth, produce abundant crops of rice and vegetables. Villages, connected by a network of tracks, keep close to the cliffs so as not to waste valuable farming land. The main road back to Yangshuo lies in the distance, cutting a sweeping path through this serene land. Also below lie the Big Banyan Tree and the areas previously visited.
Starting to head back to town, evening was approaching and the area's natural beauty enhanced. Many peaks became silhouettes in the hazy sky. They were reflected in the calm waters of fishponds adjacent to a wide green carpet of maturing rice. There, the river also flowed in a wide bend. Mirrored on its smooth surface was Moon Hill - so beautiful it was difficult to leave that evening.
