Elegant but minimalist decor keeps the focus on the food. [Photo by Mike Peters/China Daily]

Lily bulb, gingko, asparagus and elm fungus would be a colorful but typical stir-fry of vegetables except for the commanding presence of the fungus, which comes from China's northeast. It has the look and the hearty quality of bacon, but an earthy flavor all its own.

The tomato ravioli comes in a noodle pleated into cup shape, with layers of tomato, smoked mashed potato, rich runny egg yolk, pea and onion powder. Our server confides this is his favorite dish on this menu, and little wonder.

The "flower pot" dessert is the most artsy construction of the night: A small clay pot of roselle and apple is topped with a layer of "dirt", in this case some crunchy cocoa powder. Beneath it are layers of apple sorbet and roselle ice cream, a surprise unless you've anticipated chef Lu's clever "planting" by grasping the ice-cold pot. The dehydrated enoki mushroom seems like mere decorative conceit－it's the "flower" in the pot－but that fungal nibble packs a surprising amount of flavor, slightly sweet. There is osmanthus rice cake on the side, an appropriate finish for a meal just after Chinese New Year.

A delicate black tea was recommended to complement the menu. There is also a respectable wine list on offer, including two Chilean whites by the glass, a chardonnay and a crisp sauvignon blanc, that also go very well with the plant kingdom so beautifully packaged on plates.

Contact the writer at michaelpeters@chinadaily.com.cn

Xu Junqian contributed to this article.

If you go

1037 Yuyuan Road, Changning district, Shanghai.

021-3980-9188.