The Lentilnator bursts with color thanks to guacamole, cherry tomatoes and more.[Photo by Feng Yongbin/China Daily]

Some stalls house existing brands looking for a branch in the Gongti area, including the patisserie Glacage, Mr Shi of dumpling fame (he's serving up noodles here) and Classic Snack, which has four outlets in its home province but wanted a toehold in China's capital. Carne, a shrine to meat, is a vestige of The Smokehouse, a barbecue restaurant Li and his brother Eli operated until recently in Sanlitun, which still has a cafe outlet at Tsinghua University.

Alongside each row of vendors are different blocks of seating: tables for two, banquettes for four, even conference-size tables for parties or working groups. Half of the customers seem to have migrated from Starbucks: They are solitary souls who eat or drink absently while their attention is glued to laptops and cellphone screens.

Price levels vary, from inexpensive Chinese plates that run about 30 yuan ($4.40) to more crafted creations that can cost 70-100 yuan. On the top floor, an upscale bar offers uncommon brands and a revolving menu that features a particular type of liquor seasonally.

With this much variety, The Crib attracts quite a few customers who haven't decided what they want to eat.

"It's kinda like Sanlitun that way but not as overwhelming," says international student Yolanda Wang. "I can walk around, see what looks good, smells good, and then decide."

We can't resist doing the same on several visits.